1979 Decathlon CS rehab

Joe

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Fabens, TX
20210703_155108.webp20210703_084852.webp20210703_115356.webpMy wife thought we looked like a traveling circus. There has to be a name for the airplane in that statement somewhere. I am not sure if this will be a rebuild or just a really extensive annual. Last logbook entry was in 2009. I've already ordered rejuvenator so I suppose somewhere in between.
 
20210711_141043.jpgOriginal fabric and dope as far as I can tell, with exception of a polyfiber patch on the belly. I have started sanding and plan on rejuvenating per the ceconite manual. The wings and tail have a lot of fine cracks but only on the white. In the photo cracks sanding down to the silver seem to completely disappear. The plan is to rejuvenate, add a few coats of silver to the cracked areas and put the color back on. (1)My A&P thinks I will be seeing these cracks again in about 5 years. Any thoughts? (2)Of the excellent threads on rejuvenating is there any thing any of you wish you had done different or knew about up front? (3) On my 20"x20" polyfiber belly patch should I tape it off and leave it out of the rejuvenation or treat it like it was butyrate?
 
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I respect a guy that brings home his dream plane on a trailer (or a box truck ;) )! Poohy to these pampered pilots that fly their stuff home!

That looks like a great starting point and a few people here will probably chime in about the paint/rejuvenator issue. Where did you find the project? And how? Word of mouth or was it listed somewhere?
 
I think you have a pretty good plan. Your A&P is right, but so what? You'll get 5 good years of flying. Eventually you need to recover it regardless of fabric condition to ensure the bones are sound for acro.

If you get the rejuvenator on before the cracks go through the silver and the dope starts separating from the fabric, it should work well. That is my plan on my wings. On my fuselage, it was too far gone. I wound up stripping the dope to the fabric with a putty knife. See my thread for that adventure.

In terms of things learned relevant to your project, I was not impressed with the bonding power of the nitrate dope used on my 78 Decathlon. You should expect some loose tapes, possibly made worse by the rejuvenator, and have a plan to fix. Make sure you have a quart of Super Seam handy for that.

For stripping, hardware store Lacquer Thinner is functionally the same as Butyrate and Nitrate thinner, at half the cost. Don't use it for thinning rejuvenator and coatings though, just for stripping and cleanup.

Be very thorough in masking your plexiglass. The solvents used in Ceconite will trash it. Consider popping out your rear side windows. It is not hard.

I hate hate hate mixing systems, for exactly this reason. I would strip the polyfiber coatings down to bare dacron and build up with Ceconite.
 
Where did you find the project?
download.jpgAnyone who follows Trade A Plane will recognize this picture. After about 6 months listed, overnight the pictures and price changed from airplane to project. I purchased it sight unseen, which is a terrible thing to do, but so far I haven't found anything to be unhappy about.
 
View attachment 3893Anyone who follows Trade A Plane will recognize this picture. After about 6 months listed, overnight the pictures and price changed from airplane to project. I purchased it sight unseen, which is a terrible thing to do, but so far I haven't found anything to be unhappy about.
In today's market you gotta be ready to move fast and take risk. If it was priced as a project, you really don't have much to lose. If you can get it flying without a total restoration, you will come out ahead.
 
I would strip the polyfiber coatings down to bare dacron
It is always nice to have some confirm that you have to do that thing you didn't want to do but knew you had to.

My fuselage is a little rough. Cracks in usual places, unfinished patch where two formers were replaced, ringworm below door and peeling under rattle can repair on left side. I'm saving the fuselage for last.
 
Paint color.: Does any one have any ideas of what the original color of red Bellanca might have used in 1979. The insignia white and the bahama blue were pretty easy to match to the Randolph card but depending on the light and what part of the plane, I've matched it to every red on the card at some point. I suppose any of them would look good but you usually can't go wrong with the original color.

Source for do-hickies: There is a little round plastic cable fairing where the trim cable passes up through the elevator. I am hopeful someone in the forum knows of a part number or a source for them.
 
I've got a parts manual, but it's too big to email or attach to a thread. About 50 MB.

Hey Bart, any chance you could set up a manuals section with larger file limits?
 
I've got a manual printed in 1979 but I didn't find my little plastic fairing in it. I would think it would be a standard item in covering supplies but I haven't come up with the right search term to find it.
 
Re color, two tips:
1. Get a woman to do it.
2. Match it somewhere not exposed to sunlight, eg underside of a control surface.
3. Peel off a decal and match it there.
 
Turns out do-hickies are seaplane drain grommets. My Wife and my A&P have recused themselves from the paint color picking process. I will be pulling the aileron fairing this evening. I'm hopeful to get a better sample from underneath.
 
Try Randolph Colorado Red.
One caveat: when Randolph was purchased by Goldman, the colors changed. Last can of Colo. Red I got was almost watery.
Mine is 1977, but refinished in 1992 using Randolph.
 
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20210720_141824.webpTwo days after applying rejuvenator I had some tape lift on my elevators. I think it may have been related to the hot weather, it was already up to 85 by the time I applied the second coat, and that was at 9 AM. I have since started adding retarder, which is not specified in the Ceconite manual but the problem hasn't repeated it self so I am going with it. I used an artist brush to add some nitrate dope under the tape and ironed it down with aluminum fold to keep the dope from sticking to the iron.
 
OK I have read the section of the Ceconite manual about rejuvenating and I can not find anywhere where it says "Now strip all the dope off of your fuselage". Big Ed I think we should write them and request that this vital step be added to the manual. I believe every project should start with a hideous picture for later comparison. Notice the pink (polyfiber) in the lower left corner, I have not decided what to do about that yet.20210827_171739.webp 20210829_155805.webp
 
OK I have read the section of the Ceconite manual about rejuvenating and I can not find anywhere where it says "Now strip all the dope off of your fuselage". Big Ed I think we should write them and request that this vital step be added to the manual. I believe every project should start with a hideous picture for later comparison. Notice the pink (polyfiber) in the lower left corner, I have not decided what to do about that yet.View attachment 4157 View attachment 4158

Ok it's GAME ON now!

Where are you located? Strongly recommend you pay close attention to humidity when it comes time to spray dope. That's about the one thing that can really screw you up.
 
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