enough halon in an enclosed space and you'll be lights out pretty quickly. is there any route to a piped system to put the halon under the panel or around the engine?
You should read AC 20-80,
In-Flight Fires as well as AC 20-42D
Hand Fire Extinguishers for use in Aircraft.
The short version is that while there are minimum safe limits for Halon exposure, and that high levels will cause dizziness, impaired coordination, and reduced mental sharpness, incapacitation due to Halon removing all the oxygen from the air is a myth. (We'll get into cabin volume and ventilation at the end.
Halon works by interfering with the chemical reactions that occur in a fire. The short and simple version is that it introduces non-reactive elements into the fire that reduce the reaction rate of the chemical reactions taking place and reduce the heat. It doesn't remove the oxygen, it just bonds with it at the point of the fire under high temperature conditions.
It might be worth considering the alternatives and how they work as well:
1) Water-glycol extinguishers work by reducing the heat of the fire to essentially eliminate the heat that is creating an ignition source. They also have a secondary function of the mist in the discharge reducing available oxygen. However, they are a non starter for most electrical fires (lithium battery fires being a notable exception) and can spread a fuel fire.
2) Dry powder extinguishers use a chemical like monoammonium phosphate, sodium bicarbonate, or potassium bicarbonate. Dry powders melt and in the process absorb heat, reducing the heat of the fire, and the melted powder then coats the burning material both preventing the release of toxic vapors and blocking oxygen. The downside is that you end up with very small particles get everywhere and are almost impossible to clean. In an aircraft cockpit fire, the instruments will pretty well be toast.
3) Foam extinguishers work by coating the burning material, and for a fuel fire will coat the surface and block oxygen. Given the water content of the foam, they are also very effective at reducing the heat of the fire.
4) CO2 extinguishers work in two ways. First is blocks oxygen and second when it makes a phase change from a liquid state (kept that way under pressure in the extinguisher to a gaseous state it absorbs a LOT of heat. It leaves no mess or residue to clean up, however CO2 toxicity is a big deal.
5) Halocarbon extinguishers are Halon replacements and work the same way, but weigh about twice as much for comparable effectiveness.
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That more or less leaves Halon as the go to choice in a small aircraft, with Halocarbon agents as the second choice - at twice the weight, with the same minimum safe volume issues and symptoms.
The minimum safe cabin volume for a full release of a 2.5 pound Halon extinguishers (a 5 BC rating) is 558 cu ft at sea level and 751 cu ft at 8,000 ft. A Citabria or Decathlon cabin probably has a volume of around 80 to 100 cu ft, that limits the safe weight of Halon to about .35 to .45 pounds at sea level. The bad news is that the PRT RT 400 is the smallest Halon extinguisher I can find and it has .9 pounds of Halon in it.
However, having .9 pounds doesn't mean I'll use all of it. If I am using all of it, it's because I'm probably on fire and the dizziness, lack of coordination and mental sharpness side effects of excess exposure are A LOT BETTER than being on fire.
Maybe more importantly I have this really big window that opens on the left and a jettisonable door on the right, so I have a huge amount of readily available cabin ventilation, in addition to the two vents under the panel. I'm not flying a pressurized aircraft and exposure to Halon really is the least of my concerns in a 7KCAB. What I do have is 18 gallons of 100LL on each side of me at head level and 1.5 gallons of 100LL in a header tank under the panel. I'm far more concerned with putting the fire out as quickly as possible.
Since the Halon reduces the rate of the chemical reactions taking place in the fire and rapidly reduces the heat, my main concern other than putting Halon on the fire is to shut off the master switch to remove the ignition source that might otherwise re-start the fire if it was an electrical fire and shut off the fuel to reduce the fuel if it's a fuel fire being fed by a broken line forward of the fuel shut off.