Official Stewart Systems Questions Thread

Bartman

Administrator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey, USA
#1
Here you go folks, I'm making my way through the painting steps using the Stewart Systems process, happy to try to answer questions you might have. It's working out ok so far but we really won't know for sure until we see how the top coat turns out and then how it holds up for the next ten to twenty years. We'll still be here, right?

Let's start with the website;
http://www.stewartsystems.aero/default.aspx

YouTube channel
https://www.youtube.com/user/stewartsystems

Product support documents
http://www.stewartsystems.aero/support.aspx

Some of the youtube information isn't part of the official technique anymore although it's still pretty close. It will definitely give you an idea of what to expect and the level of effort involved in the process. Tech support has been fantastic so far.
 

Bartman

Administrator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey, USA
#3
Everything I've received has included a one year shelf life guarantee, provided it's unopened. The EkoFill which is their fill and UV protection layer need to be stirred to get the solids on the bottom back up and into suspension but it's gone on really well and has dried as quickly as it's supposed to. To what you said, buying the right amount is probably better than overdoing it and having the leftovers go bad on the shelf.
 

Bob Turner

Well-known member
#4
We have no trouble with Ekofill, except for the stirring part. In only two weeks it will settle, making stirring a serious project. The glue gets lumpy, then decomposes. And not sure, but I think the finish paint can crystallize. Still, if you really get good at this process, I think it has merit. I love the way it does minor repairs, but am still in the Ceconite mode for entire surfaces - cost enters in, along with a personality that does not follow cookbooks well.
 

Bartman

Administrator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey, USA
#5
Having never sprayed before, I feel like I'm cheating being able to wipe down the gun and run water through it for a few minutes to get it cleaned out. Without experience using the other systems it's hard to say which is which but so far it's been great to be free of offensive smells and fumes other than what the guy I'm working with is putting out!
 

Clifford Daly

Well-known member
#6
Spent 110 bucks on a paint shaker and it is by far the best thing I’ve bought for my project.... put a can on and walk away for 10 minutes and it’s the greatest thing! I have many uses for it though with the amount of painting I do but if you plan on more projects then definitely make the investment!
 

Bartman

Administrator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey, USA
#7
No shaking allowed with Stewart coatings! Only stirring, but not too aggressive. I think the issue is the paint, being water based, will get foamy.

I bought a bunch of wood stirring sticks to keep it mixed well as I go and use a paint mixer on a drill at slow speeds if it's been sitting for very long.
 

Clifford Daly

Well-known member
#8
Interesting. It’s mixed on a shaker when they make it! I can’t imagine the bubbles being around for more than a few hours. Doing the heavy mixing the day before would eliminate that. But i guess a mixer works well since it’s not flammable.
 

Bruce

Well-known member
Location
Knoxville TN
#9
I've been surfing on re finishing and the Stewart system looks really good any comments or concerns? Also being new was this a total recover or did you freshen up what you had? I have been looking for information on how to remove old paint when fabric is good but paint didn't stick to fabrics. Trying to decide if I should just re furbish or replace the fabrics.
Bruce
 

Bartman

Administrator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey, USA
#10
it's worked out well for me on my wings so far. the wings were recovered as part of the spar conversion so it's new fabric. if you have issues with the original paint not sticking to the fabric I'd guess you won't be able to repaint without also removing and replacing the fabric. I'm not an A&P/IA though so my opinion isn't worth much. Do you have large areas where the paint is missing?
Stewart Systems paint, EkoCrylic, is nice in that it can be put over other paints and it sticks well and looks really good but you've got to have a solid layer to start with.
 

Bartman

Administrator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey, USA
#12
Another minor blunder, er, i mean, learning experience! Went to paint lift struts number left a couple of days ago and seemed to remember spraying white EkoPoly over green Zinc Phosphate primer without any problems so got all set up and started shooting. After a couple of fog coats it looked like the white wasn't going to cover the green so I sent out an SOS to Andy at Stewart Systems who said, 1. keep going, the white will cover it and 2. If you put down too many fog coats in a row it will start to look like orange peel. So I sprayed another coat and then improvised another fog coat too soon after the last one and they ran into each other and I lost the fine sandpaper surface finish that must be there before the glossy final coat. So it had to fully set up before I could sand it and today I sprayed primer to start over! :cry::cry::cry:

I don't know what I was thinking trying to spray white on a part that was originally white and only spot primed with green. Two more fog coats and I might have gotten away with a final gloss coat. It'll be nice now that it's been sanded again and the primer has evened out the base color.
 

Bob Turner

Well-known member
#13
I did my Cub lift struts with rattle cans two years ago. White Rustoleum primer, and then old formula Schoolbus Yellow. That was two years ago - they still look great.
My personality and finicky paint do not match.