Powdercoating the frame

Big Ed

N50247 - '79 Super D
Joined
Jul 20, 2020
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Tampa, FL
Miracle Finish, or the Devil's Coating?

Just wondering. Many people on the internet are convinced it is not suitable for steel frames because it hides corrosion.

But the FAA allows it, and ACA uses it for all their new aircraft. Jerry Melhalf is a pretty meticulous engineer and I doubt they would be doing that unless the tech data supported it.

What say ye?
 
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Why take the chance? If you are parking in a protected area, epoxy will last longer than you will.

Back when epoxy was $12/gallon I did my J-3 fuselage. Not a speck of rust after 45 years near the coast, and 15 tied down outside.
 
in my humble opinion, if you do a good job applying either coating you'll get the protection you're expecting. Either coating can have voids that allow moisture in and which will permit corrosion.

I'm not well versed in every quality of both coatings but if they can crack when the frame cracks, and show evidence of the crack, then they're suitable for an airframe, IMHO. The generally accepted theory is that light colors are better for showing evidence of cracks. Do epoxy coatings crack or do they stretch with the underlying material to conceal cracks?

Most recently, I bought the Christen inverted oil system that is listed on Barnstormers for $1500. In preparing to refinish it, I found a crack along one of the bungs in the oil/air separator tank. The tank is powder coated an off-white color and the crack was clearly visible. I returned it and am awaiting a refund from the seller. In that case, the powder coating applied by the factory served me well.
 
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Semi-tangential question. I will be taking my frame to a local refinisher to be media blasted and repainted with industrial epoxy. I understand that over-aggressive blasting can erode tubing strength. What media should I request be used? Are there any to stay away from?
 
I like Black Beauty for general blasting as it doesn't leave residue that can contaminate the base metal. Blasting media comes in different grits and the air pressure used can also affect the aggressiveness of the process. You want to remove the paint and any light corrosion while also leaving a nice texture to the metal for the epoxy to grab onto. A good media blaster will understand what you're asking for and be able to guide you. Dustless blasting is good too, it won't remove any metal but will clean the frame bare. I might be wrong but I don't think epoxy coatings really need the surface roughness to bond but you could always prep the tubes with some 320 grit sandpaper or red scotchbrite pads just to be sure.
 
Did some research. Numerous certified aircraft and major kit producers powdercoat their frames now. Most notably ACA, Maule, Husky, Cubcrafters, and Bill Kimball. Vans RV powdercoats their engine mounts. That is a lot of engineering talent.

Most of the arguments against it come down to non-attributable rumors of problems, and pet theories on rust propagation, eg standard internet fare.

Like anything, there are different processes and specifications for different applications.

I might look into getting it done around here. Jerry Melhalf Jr is a pretty strong advocate of it. Maybe I can get ACA to give the spec or process their vendor uses.
 
I am definitely getting the frame powdercoated. After cutting off the cover and seeing what a beating the frame takes in some areas, I am all in on durability.

Chad says the ACA specs include a line about the process. I will post that when I get it.

Some of the internet stories come from thinking powdercoating is all the same. There are 6 different types of powders used and 2 different categories of coating. When you get a budget job done on your wheels or lawn furniture, you are getting a cosmetic coating with thermoplastic polyester resins. But there are industrial grade processes with thermoset epoxies, urethanes, and blends that are extremely tough and that chemically bond with the metal.
 
ACA powdercoat specs attached. Have to do a little research to figure out which products to use, since they list 7 different powders for the steel parts. I am guessing the Axalta Black Magic II or AkzoNobel Mirror Black are what the factory uses on their frames, but I will call to confirm. Both of those are urethane based, which the manufacturers state offers excellent corrosion protection and exterior durability.

Epoxy powders, just like epoxy paints, chalk and eventually fail when exposed to UV. So if you did the frame in epoxy, you would have to paint over the exposed frame members. I think with matte black urethane you can just do the entire frame and all other steel parts in one product, without much fussing.
 

Attachments

Dale confirms Axalta Black Magic is the powder of choice. That is an aliphatic urethane thermoset powder in matte black. Urethane has excellent UV, chemical, and corrosion resistance.

You might have trouble getting that exact product. Most powdercoating shops stock one brand of powder and buy in bulk. But almost every brand produces an equivalent powder with the same properties and performance.

The important part is apparently the phosphate wash. This is not an unusual process for a powdercoat shop and is apparently standard procedure for steel.

Zinc epoxy primer powder is apparently also an option. My shop told me they do that lot for beach equipment and boat products.
 
A bit of update on this, to share my experiences and lessons learned on blasting. Some of the sheet metal channel used on the older Bellanca frames is pretty thin gauge. It did not hold up well to the blasting. Looks like they had the pressure too high, and it warped the channel pretty badly. I wound up replacing the rear window frames on both sides. The channel used by ACA is beefier, so it was an improvement.

Also, note that when the frame is off the gear, there are some very fragile stringer brackets on the bottom. They will barely support the weight of the frame, but any attempt to slide, twist, or drag the frame will cause them to immediately fold and be ruined. I built a cradle to place the frame in to protect the brackets, but apparently that was too much for the minimum wage crew at the blaster facility.

Taken both together, I was not satisfied with the care given my frame at the vendor, and I will be finding another provider for my blasting and powder coating services. There is a shop about 45 minutes away that specializes in aerospace and medical applications. No doubt it will be pricey, but IMO worth the effort at this point.

Hindsight being 20/20, if I did this again I would probably send it to the factory. Between familiarity with the fitment of the mods and having vetted vendors for blasting and coating, worth the expense and trouble IMO. Having said that, my project is still on track.
 
Well, ouch!
Yes, high pressure sand will erode the skinny channels, but worse, it erodes your main structural steel by the same amount. If, for example, it eats a hole in a piece of.010 steel, you have also lost a third of the steel in an .032 wall structural tube - not to mention the "shot-peening" effect.
 
Erosion does not appear to be an issue. In discussions with the vendor, the selection of media protects against that. This appears to be mechanical force applied against the thin edges of the sheet metal and bending it.
 
Update:. I changed vendors. I visited several shops and discussed the project with the owners, then selected one. As of Weds the frame is sitting in the shop waiting. Looking at 3 week turnaround, which would aggravate me if I weren't going out of country next week.

I am confident that this shop will do a good job. I spent quite a while discussing with the owner. He has experience doing aircraft parts for Lockwood Aviation, a well known and reputable repair station at Sebring.

When I get the frame back, I will write up some lessons learned for anyone else going down this path.
 
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Posted some pics on my project thread. I'm very happy with the results. As promised, some tips on lessons learned:
  1. Vet your vendor. Look for an owner-operator who does his own work. Stay away from high volume shops with large crews, and consumer shops focused on rad colors for the cool dudz.
  2. You don't need an "aviation" shop, but you do need someone who will pay attention to your specifications and ensure they are followed.
  3. Oven size is a potential issue. Measure your frame. I figure 20' long is the minimum.
  4. Get the process specs from ACA. Phosphate wash is critical, per Dale.
  5. Shops tend to like one powder brand. Each major brand has similar product lines. You don't have to use the same product codes as the ACA specs, but you do need equivalent performance. You'll need to do some research to cross match.
  6. Get instructions on ACA on which areas to mask and plug. These instructions may be vague. As a general rule, mask or plug anything likely to be a tight fit during assembly, such as the h-stab studs, landing gear bolt holes, and any bushings. Zip ties are a good way to identify holes to plug.
Now to the question I raised at the beginning of this thread: is powdercoating suitable and worth the cost for aircraft frames? I did a lot of research, and everything I found pointed to the same answer: hell yes. That was confirmed for me when I got my frame back. This stuff is insanely tough.

But where did the rumors about powdercoat not being effective at corrosion control come from? Well, that takes a bit of detail to address.

Basically, just like there are a lot of types of paint with different properties, there are a lot of types of powdercoat with different properties. Broadly speaking, there are 3 chemical categories of resins used: polyester, epoxy, and urethane. There are also 2 types of processes: thermoplastic, and thermoset. Thermoplastics melt, while thermosets react chemically to heat.

The stuff most people are used to seeing is polyester thermoplastic. This is basically plastic goo that melts and hardens. It goes on very thick, which makes it very durable and results in smooth surfaces that hides things like weld fillets. That makes it a good choice for things like playground equipment, sports gear, lawn furniture, etc. But, it does not chemically bond with the metal, and can be peeled off or even melted off and reused. That means the only corrosion protection is the unbroken barrier. Once compromised, it will not protect the underlying metal.

Polyester is also not UV stable, and not chemically resistant. MEK will strip it right off, and a few years in direct sunlight will fade it.

The great majority of consumer powder coating is done with polyester, because it is cheap, very easy to use, and comes in many very bright colors. If you go to a powdercoater and don't know what to ask for, that is probably what you are going to get.

However, there are several classes of industrial thermoset powdercoats such as epoxies, urethanes, and blends which chemically bond with the metal like paint. Epoxies are thick, highly corrosion protective and chemical resistant, but not UV stable. Urethanes are thinner, but highly resistant to UV, chemicals, and corrosion protective. Various blends exist to combine the properties of polyester, epoxy, and urethane. These types of powdercoats are used widely in mining, architecture, aerospace, and defense. There are also zinc rich powder primers used for marine environments.

ACA's go-to choice is Axalta Black Magic. It is a urethane thermoset in matte black. That must be a pretty popular option, as every major brand has one.

So how did powdercoat get a bad reputation? IMO somebody got a bicycle done in cheap polyester, it got a few nicks and rusted, and the internet stories started. But IMO that is as logical as painting a boat trailer in latex interior paint, dunking it in the ocean, and claiming the ensuing rust as proof that paint does not protect metal.

Bottom line, most of the major aircraft manufacturers powdercoat their steel components now. ACA, Vans, Carbon Cub, Maule, Husky, all do it as standard practice.
 
Yes. I was totally unaware.

Still not having problems with epoxy coatings. Cub was done in 1969.
 
Still not having problems with epoxy coatings. Cub was done in 1969.

This is what my 1978 factory epoxy coating looked like with the fabric cut off. Looked fine when covered. I was having a problem and did not know it.

PXL_20220609_212409458.webp
 
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