Boiled Linseed Oil

Chan Hughes

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Joined
Jan 25, 2023
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Location
Fresno CA
After priming and painting my wing struts I followed the recommendation of a couple grey haired legends at my airport to treat the inside of them with linseed oil. I was expecting it to not fully cure and thought I'd be wiping up an ongoing mess for several months after hanging wings. I am pleasantly surprised to see it is now a solid, as well as very well bound to surface.

Curious now if anyone is using this oil in other applications?

Anyone experience a rag going up in flames after working with it? Apparently it holds that spontaneous fire risk, higher than that of other oils.

Here are the 4 places AC43.13-1B mentions it:

6-42. TUBE INTERIORS. Protect the interiors of structural steel and aluminum tubing against corrosion. A small amount of water entrapped in a tube can corrode entirely through the tube thickness in a short period. Coat the tube interior by flushing with hot linseed oil, paralketone, or other approved corrosion inhibitor. The flushing liquid is usually introduced through small holes drilled in the tubing. Allow the flushing liquid to drain and plug the holes with a screw or by other means to prevent entry of moisture. Air and watertight sealing of the tubing will also give adequate protection against corrosion if the tubing is internally dry before being sealed.

c. Protect the interior of structural steel tubing. This may be done by air and watertight sealing or by flushing with hot linseed oil and plugging the openings. Inspect tubing for missing sealing screws, presence of entrapped water, local corrosion around sealing screws, welded clusters, and bolted fittings, which maybe indicative of entrapped moisture.

g. All drain plugs or drive screws in tubular structures should be removed and the structure blown out with compressed air. If water has reached the tubular interiors, carefully flush with hot fresh water and blow out water with compressed air. Roll the structure as necessary to remove water from pockets. Fill the tubes with hot linseed oil, approximately 180 °F, drain oil and replace drainplugs or drive screws.

l. Special care should be taken when welding structural tubing that has been coated on the inside with linseed oil. Smoke and fire may be generated by the heat of the torch. Ensure that an observer with a fire extinguisher is close.

Linseed 2.webp

Linseed 1.webp
 
Boiled linseed oil has added “ dryers “ that causes the oil to dry . It is a great rust preventive imho where bare metal is not subject to work wear , ie plow shares , discs, shovels , scrapers , dozer blades etc . Years ago it was the go to rust preventive for farm implements between seasons . Perfect for the insides of struts and tubing .

Straight linseed oil ( as opposed to boiled ) does not have the added dryers and will stay a fluid oil for a long time . You can drink the stuff , add it to bird and animal feed and use it on wood cutting boards and butcher block .
Its my belief that the dryers in the boiled oil contributes to the spontaneous combustion hazard .
I use a lot of the stuff and have always burned the rags or soak them in water filled baggies or other water tight containers and put them out in the trash for pickup . I never want to find out “ the hard way “ .
 
I just discovered free AI - maybe trust but verify?


Boiled linseed oil is a traditional and historically proven rust preventive for the interior of steel tubes, especially in aircraft fuselages, but modern heavy-duty rust-inhibiting waxes or specialized frame coatings are often considered more effective today. [1, 2]


Why Linseed Oil is Used
  • Polymerization: Boiled linseed oil cures as it dries, forming a tough, solid plastic-like film inside the metal tube rather than remaining a wet liquid.
  • Historical Precedent: Builders on Boat Design Net note that it was widely used by the aviation industry to flush and coat welded steel tube airframes.
  • Easy Application: You can warm the oil, pour or pump it into the tubes to coat every surface, and drain out the excess. [1, 2]
Limitations and Alternatives
  • Drying Time: It takes days or weeks to fully cure inside a sealed or semi-sealed tube environment with limited airflow.
  • Modern Alternatives: Users on forums like Boat Design Net point out that petroleum or lanolin-based heavy-duty corrosion inhibitors (such as LPS 3 or fluid film) or wax-based cavity waxes actively creep and offer superior, longer-lasting modern protection without needing a high-temperature cure.
  • Fire Hazard: Oily rags or excess pooled linseed oil can self-ignite as it oxidizes and cures. [1, 3]
If you'd like, tell me:What are you building (e.g., an aircraft frame, roll cage, bicycle, or furniture)?Is the steel structure exposed to moisture or outdoor weather?I can recommend the best specific internal coating for your project.
AI responses may include mistakes.
[1] https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/preventing-rust-inside-steel-pipe-or-tubing.50666/
[2] https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/builderresources/while-youre-building/building-articles/basic-construction/rust-protection
[3] https://www.reddit.com/r/Blacksmith/comments/1glggne/what_should_i_put_on_steel_to_protect_it_from/
 
Surely "free" AI would never lead us astray!

Good info @Gillie. What has your experience been with the cured waxy/plastic films' lifespan? Lift and separate by end of season or pretty durable?

Also, did the birds come back?
 
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