Electrical Update

The red connections are the ones I have to make. The span at the breaks in the bus rod is not going to be a lot, maybe 1/2 inch. And there won't be a lot of remaining bus rod to work with, probably also 1/2". Is there any kind of short crimped sleeve or ring I could use to make a mechanical connection between the wire and rod?

The last avionics shop soldered a wire to the junction between a fuse holder eyelet and the bus rod. Maybe that would work?

Avionics Master - factory method.webp
 
No way to crimp any kind of connector on the rod that I know of. Remember you don't need to mount your jumper lead to the end of the buss rod. Anywhere along the entire length thats convenient will be fine...the electrons won't mind...
 
I just remembered! the extra electrical stuff is in the battery box!

i had to share that because i've been going crazy trying to find it.
 
I decided to tackle SB418 while I still had the floor out. For those of you with experience with the electrical update. I have quite a bit of slack in starter cable #99 after pulling it through to the inside of the firewall. Did you trim yours back or zigzag around under the floor, or possible loop in over the top of the bulkhead fitting, to take up the slack. I'm thinking about pulling #114 out of the bundle, hope that doesn't turn out to be pain in the ass, but I can't see leaving an 8-gauge dead wire in the plane. And I think I would like to route the new #353 wire in the original bundle anyway. Any reason not to just add a 5-amp circuit breaker for the alternator field rather than hiding a fuse behind the panel. Any reason not to just install the 60-amp circuit breaker in the panel near the amp meter instead of hiding it. Screenshot 2022-06-15 215220.webp
 
Did your #99 wire have terminal ends at both ends? Mine came with only one end finished and it had to be cut to length and a terminal end added.

The 5A inline fuse is for a retrofit situation I believe. I used a 5A CB in my panel for the alternator field and the 60A is right next to the ammeter shunt, probably to save a little weight? I can't see why you couldn't put it in your electrical panel if you've got room but they mount it with adel clamps and a little bracket behind the instrument panel.
 
Did your #99 wire have terminal ends at both ends
#99 is the original battery cable from master relay to the starter relay. Now that it is attaching to a fitting passing through the firewall it is about foot longer than it needs to be. The instructions do not talk about a need to trim it down, but I think I will.
 
Got a parts box from ACA today with new electrical panel kit. Time to replace the rats nest of wires in the old fuse panel with breakers and bus bar.

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I had planned to reuse the toggle switches to save a few bucks. But looking at the old grody switches, I think I will replace.

The parts catalog uses Bellanca parts numbers instead of AN or MS, so not much help. Can anyone help me ID the correct replacements?

The toggle switches for lights appear to be AN3021 SPST. No issues there.

Master switch on the diagram is DPST. Switch is wired that way, but looks to be a commercial switch. Can/should I use an AN3027 there?

Ignition switches look like the same commercial DP switches. However, they are only wired for one pole, and the electric diagram shows them as SPST. Can I use AN3031?

In photo below, switches from left to right are mags, master, and nav/land/strobe.

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you're a better man than I am Ed. I got sufficiently frustrated after trying to figure out what constitutes an aircraft legal switch and ordered mine from Chad. I did get the breakers and breaker-switches from Aircraft Spruce.

Keep in mind the two ignition switches are installed upside down since the mags are hot/on when the switches are off which is the opposite of everything else. keep it up, it's going to be awesome!!!
 
Thanks! Yes, I am just east of Tampa. No major impacts here. The plane is southeast of Tampa, closer to the storm track. Should be fine, but I won't know for sure until someone gets a look at the airfield.

The engine shop doing my engine is in Sebring. They took a direct hit, but are far enough inland that should be no problems.
 
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