Fabric Seams

weleonard

weleonard

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Joined
Aug 24, 2024
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14
Location
Washington
Any suggestions on what to do with the tape lifting a little bit at some of the seams? The aircraft (2010) has always been hangered and looks brand new. The problem is very small at this point, but I don't want to see it get worse. Perhaps leaving it alone is best or ???
 
Chris at ACA said they clean the area, use 30NF to glue it back down, and then apply the 3M tape over the area. I’m taking my 7GCAA up in January to get several areas addressed. They also airbrush the area to try to blend it as best as possible.
 
If you use 30NF adhesive, you can coat both sides of a piece of .016 aluminum, slide it in there, press on the tape to get the glue transferred, then wipe the excess with a damp rag.

I have a Poly Fiber tape pulling - I will try some Poly Brush on the same piece of aluminum (stiff card stock works too).
 
Thank you all for the response. I am going to give it a try. I think I'll mask both sides of the area before I start spreading contact cement on the area.
 
I just did one this afternoon. Poly brush in a lifted tape area. Excess Poly Brush just wiped off the polyurethane top coat. Tomorrow I will gently apply heat. Gently. Even older tapes will shrink.
 
I was thinking about buying a small can of Poly-Tak but, after reading this thread, it sounds like Poly-Brush is the adhesive of choice for these small repairs. Has anyone tried both for a comparison?
 
Yes. This sort of repair is not always successful. If oil gets in there it becomes a lot harder to stick the tape back on.

As for photos - you will always see the line. It will look just exactly like your photo, only with no pocket. You want it perfect you need to re-tape with wider tape and professionally refinish. Usually not worth the expense.
 
Bob Turner said:
Yes. This sort of repair is not always successful. If oil gets in there it becomes a lot harder to stick the tape back on.

As for photos - you will always see the line. It will look just exactly like your photo, only with no pocket. You want it perfect you need to re-tape with wider tape and professionally refinish. Usually not worth the expense.
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Did you try the poly-brush and then gently heating?
 
Yes. All three will work. Clean the area first.

If the top coat is catalyzed (urethane?) youare probably better off with Poly Tak or Poly Brush. Cleanup is easier. Use parchment paper under the iron.
 
Bob Turner said:
Yes. This sort of repair is not always successful. If oil gets in there it becomes a lot harder to stick the tape back on.

As for photos - you will always see the line. It will look just exactly like your photo, only with no pocket. You want it perfect you need to re-tape with wider tape and professionally refinish. Usually not worth the expense.
Click to expand...

weleonard said:
I think I read that super-glue is a no-no. Any thoughts?
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Bob Turner said:
Too brittle. No shear strength. If you don't want to spring for a quart, model airplane cement would be better.
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30NF or poly-brush? No heat on the 30NF I assume. Which would you recommend?
 
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