Panel ledge

Big Ed

N50247 - '79 Super D
Joined
Jul 20, 2020
Messages
1,938
Location
Tampa, FL
I have a terrible habit of starting projects on the spur of the moment. My panel ledge was disintegrating, so I bought a replacement when I visited ACA during Oshkosh. Had planned to install this winter when I pull the boot cowl. But got to tinkering with the MP gauge and the next thing I know I've got the panel in pieces.

Fortunately it went back together pretty easily. It's a really minor thing, but it really looked like crap and it was the first thing you see when you climb in the cockpit.
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Looks much better now.

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Now I need some placards and labels. Any suggestions?
 

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Not clear what you did. I go for glossy paint, then have my model train buddies make decals. I will show you a Super Cub wing root in a few minutes. Not sure I have a photo of my J4 panel, but will get one - Leroy Lettering.

The top part comes out easily. Get some stretchy black vinyl and attach using Barq's contact cement. See my panel photo in another thread.
 
Not clear what you did. I go for glossy paint, then have my model train buddies make decals. I will show you a Super Cub wing root in a few minutes. Not sure I have a photo of my J4 panel, but will get one - Leroy Lettering.

The top part comes out easily. Get some stretchy black vinyl and attach using Barq's contact cement. See my panel photo in another thread.

I replaced the black plastic fascia on the ledge on the bottom of the panel. Here are closeup photos of the difference. Note the broken plastic to the right of the start button, the rusty washer on the fuel pump switch, and the plexiglass backing on the starter button.

BEFORE

PXL_20210726_134730415 (2).jpg

AFTER

PXL_20210917_025334064 (2).jpg

It was a bit of a PITA because the ledge is sandwiched between a flat metal crossbar on the frame and the upper panel. The panel is secured to the frame with 4 AN #10 bolts. The bolt heads are on top, under the instruments in such a way that makes access difficult and awkward. Also had to remove the mixture control cable, but that was helpful because it allowed me to deal with rust on the shaft that also looked crappy.

That part was $@# expensive for a piece of molded plastic, over 100 bucks, but I do think it significantly improves the presentation to the pilot, which does have a psychological impact in an aerobatic plane. If the plane looks well maintained, it probably is. If the primary controls look like someone half-assed a temporary fix, what does that say about the rest of the plane?
 
Decals won't work. There are newer tape machines that will make professional labels - I can probably get you a sample next week if you want.
As promised, here are my model train decals - just the tank quantities and the checklist - the rest are glue-on placards probably from Piper.

Cib decals 001.webp
 
Decals won't work. There are newer tape machines that will make professional labels - I can probably get you a sample next week if you want.
As promised, here are my model train decals - just the tank quantities and the checklist - the rest are glue-on placards probably from Piper.

The guy who runs my airfield and restores warbirds recommended I go see the local sign shop. He says they make nice engraved plastic tags. That is appealing.
 
Ed, in a pinch I've printed stuff in color and then carefully laid a thin coat of epoxy over the graphic to seal it up. trim to fit and attach with some contact cement or spray glue.
 
I used Avery self laminating laser printer labels for my glider - but there the labels stick really well to smooth fiberglass. Not sure how they would stick to the rough plastic surface ... but they do work great otherwise, and are UV proof
 
Forgot to mention that ACA has decal sheets, but they were kinda pricey. Very high quality, silver lettering on black background, peel and stick. Couldn't tell the material, either vinyl or maybe metal foil? But geez, it was like $150 for the full sheet. Chad did say they could cut some out for me if I didn't want them all. Bart, did you price those yet?
 
Uh-oh. Mine is just a switch. I don't use it for pattern work, so want to be able to flip it on quickly.
 
Uh-oh. Mine is just a switch. I don't use it for pattern work, so want to be able to flip it on quickly.
I was just kidding Ed...I always put the little rubber covers on my switches so I can see at a glance what they go to...
Red for master and alternator switches, white for landing lights, blue for fuel pump, green for nav lights...
Just something I used to do.
Chris
 
Forgot to mention that ACA has decal sheets, but they were kinda pricey. Very high quality, silver lettering on black background, peel and stick. Couldn't tell the material, either vinyl or maybe metal foil? But geez, it was like $150 for the full sheet. Chad did say they could cut some out for me if I didn't want them all. Bart, did you price those yet?

No sir but I've got a line item in my budget for the unknown unknowns and I blew through it a long time ago! lol

I'll probably do whatever the factory does although I silk-screened the new panel I made for my Aztec back when I had it before digital cameras and it looked awesome if you ask me. :)
 
I was just kidding Ed...I always put the little rubber covers on my switches so I can see at a glance what they go to...
Red for master and alternator switches, white for landing lights, blue for fuel pump, green for nav lights...
Just something I used to do.
Chris

I like that idea ... where do I get the little rubber covers for toggle switches?
 
Cool. That would be a nice addition to my switch panel. It's always a bit tricky looking over my shoulder to flip switches, especially in fading light or when strapped in tight with a chute on. I have the switch order memorized of course, but color coding would definitely help.

So is there an official color scheme?
 
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