1977 Super Decathlon 8KCAB Rebuild

Blasted the master cylinders with plastic media and got them pretty well cleaned up. Was going to leave them bare but the castings are rough which is probably why Gerdes gave them a heavy powder coat finish. Definitely too rough to hide with just a few coats of enamel but they're buried behind the pedals though so maybe it'll be primer/paint after all.

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Have been spending the last few weeks making templates and stuff to do the big parts of the new panel. An iPad mini 6 goes in the middle, two Garmin radios just to the right along the bottom and an EDM-900 engine monitor in the upper right. Next to do is to punch out four instrument holes and then start wiring.

Wiring will be done initially in a piece of scrap aluminum or thin plywood to make sure I'm on the right track. After that I'll drill holes for the CB's and switches to the left of the iPad. It'll be a mix of old and new with all of the electrics routed through the panel instead of overhead.

Very happy to have the big steps of this done. <<<deep breathe>>>


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Planning diagram for reference. The radio stack swapped places with the USB ports in order to get the radios closer to the center so I can reach them with my left hand. I think they should have always been on the left but some of the big engine related knobs would be in the way. Also, the g-meter is going under the airspeed, the AV-30 will be to the left of it.
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Stopped by the hangar, propped it up amd snapped a pic
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Have been spending the last few weeks making templates and stuff to do the big parts of the new panel. An iPad mini 6 goes in the middle, two Garmin radios just to the right along the bottom and an EDM-900 engine monitor in the upper right. Next to do is to punch out four instrument holes and then start wiring.

Wiring will be done initially in a piece of scrap aluminum or thin plywood to make sure I'm on the right track. After that I'll drill holes for the CB's and switches to the left of the iPad. It'll be a mix of old and new with all of the electrics routed through the panel instead of overhead.

Very happy to have the big steps of this done. <<<deep breathe>>>


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Looks great! How are you going to finish it?

How much did the blank cost? Did you cut the rectangular openings yourself? Did you research any CNC fabrication services?
 
Ed, I'll take some photos of the templates and stuff, lots of MDF and router bits! I forget what the blank cost, a fully cut panel is like $360 I think. The holes were rough cut to about 1/16" of the finished size with a metal blade in a jigsaw and then a router was used with a template to make the final cut edge.

A machinist friend of mine made me a set of custom dies to do the big bends for the iPad mount and I finally worked up the nerve last night to have a go at it. The picture above makes the bends look like they're bulging but they're smooth.

I'll post more but this was last night.
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Used a few different templates and jigs for the holes in the panel. A 1/2" router bit was used to cut the templates from MDF and then a 1/2 collar was put on the router with a 1/8" end mill to cut the aluminum. All of the openings were cut rough with a hand held jig saw using a 32 TPI metal cutting blade. The 1/8 end mill wouldn't have been able to cut through the aluminum by itself in one pass and I didn't try varying the depth of the cut to do it in multiple passes without rough cutting it first. :unsure:

I write notes on things so I know what I did if a bunch of time goes by before I want to use them again.

First up was the template to cut the center iPad hole. The style of the cut leaves nice rounded and recessed corners for stress relief so you don't get cracking off the corners of the holes. The factory does this as well.
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The hole for the two radios was cut the same way.
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The mounting ears for the radios opening were bent using a female form and a male block. The panel was cut and then clamped into place before the block of wood was forced down into the form to make the bend.
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The larger opening's mounting ears were bent in a press brake which was just a cheap Grizzly (worst tool I've ever bought, the handle broke off the first time I used it! 🤬) press brake being pressed by a Harbor Freight (nothing but quality in my shop, eh?!?) press, pic is in a previous post.

The hole for the engine monitor was cut with an MDF template made like the others, rough cut first then finish cut with the router and end mill.

That's it. More time consuming to make the templates and stuff than it was high tech but it worked awesome. Hardest part was getting everything exactly where I wanted it with all of the lines and stuff parallel so it will look factory.
 
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Made a boo that is going to cost time and money. the holes for the cb's and switches were drilled about a quarter of an inch too low and that puts them too low, in my humble opinion, so I have ordered a new panel blank and will be redoing it. cost is about $400!! 😭😭😭

should have caught my error here!
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didn't realize it here
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these pics show why it's a problem. the breakers are visible and have room to pop but i just don't like it. there are a couple of other tweaks i want to make so starting new is going to work out ok even though it really sucks to have to spend the money!
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Do you have the rubber grommet shock mounts in place on your mockup? That raises the panel up a smidge.
 
Per my previous question, I can't tell from the pics if you have the shock mount grommets installed. That would help.

Also, are you certain the vertical angle of the panel is correct? If it is leaning aft (towards the pilot) a bit, that would put the breakers closer to the plastic ledge. If you are relying on the flange at the bottom of the panel blank to set that angle, recommend you square up the panel face with the frame and see if that helps.
 
Per my previous question, I can't tell from the pics if you have the shock mount grommets installed. That would help.

Also, are you certain the vertical angle of the panel is correct? If it is leaning aft (towards the pilot) a bit, that would put the breakers closer to the plastic ledge. If you are relying on the flange at the bottom of the panel blank to set that angle, recommend you square up the panel face with the frame and see if that helps.

i could probably bend the bottom flange to move the face away from the slope of the lower panel trim but i don't have a panel cover to see if it would go along with the new location of the top edge of the panel.

the grommets go in holes in the frame support for the panel and in the bottom flange of the panel, eight in all that will be installed but they are thin so they don't help a lot.

appreciate the suggestions but i think i am stuck this time. also, anything like a flashlight or pen will jam the cb's and potentially keep them from popping which I don't want to have to worry about.
 
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i could probably bend the bottom flange to move the face forward but i don't have a panel cover to see if it would go along with the new location of the top edge of the panel.

the grommets go in holes in the frame support for the panel and in the bottom flange of the panel, eight in all that will be installed but they are thin so they don't help a lot.

appreciate the suggestions but i think i am stuck this time. also, anything lime a flashlight or pen will jam the cb's and potentially keep them from popping

The panel cover is trimmed to fit at the forward edge, so it is not a constraint. Strongly recommend you square up your panel face with the frame, and not rely on the flange to set the panel angle. The panel face should be exactly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the aircraft, since that is what your attitude instruments are calibrated for.
 
The panel cover is trimmed to fit at the forward edge, so it is not a constraint. Strongly recommend you square up your panel face with the frame, and not rely on the flange to set the panel angle. The panel face should be exactly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the aircraft, since that is what your attitude instruments are calibrated for.

I appreciate the information Ed but there were a couple of details I wasn't super happy with and the cb's being off was strike three. There are a couple of tweaks to make and if I can avoid making any mistakes it'll be just how I want it and it will maybe look professionally done which would be nice.
 
Ok, stupid question time. As the aircraft owner, with the original panel in hand, can't you make a replacement part using the original as guidance? Given what appear to be very good metal working skills, a piece of the appropriate aluminum from Aircraft Spruce would be a lot less expensive, just more time.
 
Ok, stupid question time. As the aircraft owner, with the original panel in hand, can't you make a replacement part using the original as guidance? Given what appear to be very good metal working skills, a piece of the appropriate aluminum from Aircraft Spruce would be a lot less expensive, just more time.
While you could indeed make a new panel using the old one as a template you would still need an A&P to log and sign it off. I don't think this would fall in the category of "owner approved" maintenance.
Now if you start modifying the panel as Bartman is doing you're going to need to get an IA involved and submit a 337.
Bottom line is this: whoever you get to Annual your plane every year needs to be the first person you talk to...it's their call as to what they're comfortable with.
JMPO
Chris
 
An owner can legally fabricate parts for installation in his aircraft. He just can't install them. Bizarrely, his A&P can install them, but not fabricate them. Teamwork.

 
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Modifying an instrument panel is probably a minor mod - simple hand tools and doesn't affect flight characteristics or the weight/balance envelope. I did a pretty intensive study for my radio installations.
 
Ok, stupid question time. As the aircraft owner, with the original panel in hand, can't you make a replacement part using the original as guidance? Given what appear to be very good metal working skills, a piece of the appropriate aluminum from Aircraft Spruce would be a lot less expensive, just more time.

Good question! I'm working a lot lately and when I called ACA to ask about availability of another panel blank, Chad said it wouldn't take long to get one on its way. The worst part of screwing up my first panel is that it's going to take time to make the new one and to get back to the point where I can get it painted and labeled before mounting it and starting the electrical work. Making one from scratch is certainly something I can do but I need it yesterday and so calling ACA was my best option.
 
Having the Breaker panel removable is a definite plus when you have to do upgrades/troubleshooting...
Just sayin.
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Chris

Chris, I thought about salvaging the panel by cutting out the area with the holes and fabricating an overlay that would be removable. It would be fast to do something like that and it would only add a small bit of weight but isn't the electrical system so simple on these planes that a removable panel would be a little overkill? Also, the area behind the panel isn't too hard to get to because there's a deep area above/behind the panel with a cover that is easy to remove. The panel is also easy to remove with four bolts holding it in place along the bottom.

Thoughts?
 
I think a removable breaker sub-panel with a service loop in the wiring is a brilliant idea.
 
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