8KCAB While the engine is off ...

Ceconite is more a process than a cloth - the terms Ceconite and Dacron are interchangeable, but Ceconite is Dacron/nitrate/butyrate as best I can remember.
But if the factory uses Dacron stamped "Ceconite" (I bet they don't) and primer plus urethane, that would be legal for repair. The 3M-30N waterborne adhesive is as good as Stewarts, but at half the price, so if they used that, your cost would go down.
I guess they can keep it a secret, in which case the first recover would have to be a major alteration by definition.
 
The factory has a few adhesives listed but the 3M 30N is on the list.

Here are the two ACA spec documents I have. There are drawings mentioned in the specs so I assume you could get more info if you wanted it.
 

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Hiperbiper said:
Ed,
If you don't mind me asking, why new cylinders?
Chris
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The price differential is not that much, only about 10%. Did not seem to make sense to spend $$ on OH to new limits and then cheap out on cylinders.

Having said that, once the engine shop does the initial teardown and inspection, I plan to discuss further before locking in the price. If new cylinders are unobtainable and my existing ones are good candidates for overhaul, I might reconsider.
 
Bartman said:
The factory has a few adhesives listed but the 3M 30N is on the list.

Here are the two ACA spec documents I have. There are drawings mentioned in the specs so I assume you could get more info if you wanted it.
Click to expand...

Oh cool, it is Delfleet. My A&P has plenty of experience with that. There is a guy on the field that shoots Delfleet, so I may not even have to do the painting
 
When you have the wings off can you pls post pics of the fuselage wing root area? I'm curious how the fabric is attached along the top of the cabin where the wood is and how everything is routed up there. thanks!
 
I am terrified that I have made a mistake and that a year from now I will still be trying to figure out the routing of cables or sourcing of various gadgets, while my new engine sits rusting on the floor.

Speaking of which, what should I do to preserve the CS prop? It has been almost 30 days since it came off the engine. Pretty soon the motor oil is going to dry and corrosion will set in. The climate here is brutal on metal this time of year.

The tail surfaces came off today. Tomorrow the wings come off and I take a knife to the cover. Then this madness is well and truly irreversible and the only way out is to pass thru to the other side.
 
Hears a question which may or may not help with the prop, the motor has been removed for making metal correct? If so where did the metal get to? Ask the engine shop if there were signs of damage in the oil pump. If the answer is yes could there be metal particles in the prop governor and prop? Next is it worth the chance to re use these without them being overhauled as well? Personally anywhere oil was needs to be dismantled, inspected for any signs of damage worst case there’s metal in the prop and as soon as it’s cycled you damage this nice fresh motor.

Remember this project is like eating an elephant it can be done just one bite at a time. And take lots of pictures then look at all the other pictures and you’ll be fine.
 
Advice from the engine shop was to flush the prop, overhaul the governor, and replace the oil cooler.
 
Big Ed said:
I am terrified that I have made a mistake and that a year from now I will still be trying to figure out the routing of cables or sourcing of various gadgets, while my new engine sits rusting on the floor.
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Short of taking an early retirement, it is realistic to think that a year from now you will be putting it all back together. I love a challenging project almost as much as flying. If that is the case, it is a worthy endeavor. What you really need is a second airplane to fly in the meantime.

I'd agree with Bruce an inspection and reseal of the prop is going to be pretty cheap insurance. I'd talk to a prop shop about how best to preserve.

When you remove the fabric try to keep it as intact as practical and save it for future reference. Later it will be handy for locating inspection rings, drain grommets, patches etc.

God speed Big Ed!
 
If you have a formal living room, get rid of the furniture and move your airplane in. Air conditioned and convenient for work :)
 
Thanks, had not seen that. Looks to pertain to drilling rivets out of aluminum wing ribs. I am not doing that ... I am drilling rivets out of steel tail surfaces. Does it apply?
 
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