Bruce 79 ECA recover

[Bob Turner]

Ailerons are harder.

 

[Bruce]

10-28-19 progress report, after about a week and half this is what has been accomplished working o parameter tape the last photo is the one I’m debating on how to cover the turns and make it look nice, and open for any suggestions on how to make them look better. So far one quart of glue used I think it’s going pretty well, glue is sticky but cleans up well. I find my self stoping every so often to clean glue from hands, also found if you trim the 1 inch paint brush about 1/4 inch off tip glue spreads much better. Also open to suggestion of should I get to primer or store before the sealer and primer. Weather is starting to Change so I plan on the paint next year hope to get body in garage by First of Dec hope to have wings covered by end of Nov.

 

[Bartman]

Looks great Bruce, a little every day and it'll be done before you know it.

Sorry I can't help with the fabric questions, someone will help you out.

 

[Bob Turner]

I have done Stewart repairs, and am signing off a J3 - but not an expert. I would do a really good match of pinked edges at 45 degrees. Put a little extra Ekofill on the joint. Sand with 400 wet until the joint disappears. Be sure all bare fabric after sanding gets adequate Ekofill. We never sand the last coat of silver (grey).

 

[Bruce]

Thanks for the input this is how I was leaning. I even have been playing with the idea of some form of heal patch with the tape going over the end with the 45 it’s a lot of trial and error since it’s only cosmetic.

 

[Bruce]

Another day a little farther down the road

 

[Bruce]

Looks more like a wing every day, spen more time placing inspection rings and strut hole than working, measure 3 time close eyes and cut.

 

[Bruce]

One more coat of sealer to underside then on to second wing, getting better looking with each peace. One mistake I will fess up to is I wish I would have put in new plastic lines to pito system didn’t catch this till I closed the wings up and was about to put first coat of sealer and realized no tube were coming out of wing (dooop) so cut small hole by strut attach point and fixed them out and found out end was Brittle. So any one reading the site just replace the tubes wile wing is apart.

 

[Bartman]

Projects are like babies, when you're deep into tending to your own you look forward to a time when things will be easier but then you get there, and you see another baby, and you want one for yourself!! I want another project! lol
keep it going Bruce!

 

[Bruce]

It’s been a few days since last post one wing done second wrapped shrunk and started rivets, man there’s a lot of those things. I’ve also included some shots of my make shift rotisserie, simple and easy to use. Hope to finish rivets tomorrow and maybe some taping.

 

[Bob Turner]

I just had the pleasure of working with a rotisserie. Ours is Wag, modified with wheels and some hoop guards - and forty bucks worth of steel tube connecting both parts. Painting is now a one man show. Last coat goes on tomorrow if the weather clears.

 

[Bruce]

I will have to make some adjustments when I go to paint I use jerk straps when I spin it to hold it at different angles a little slow but much better than working on the table and having to find help when I needed to flip it. Not sure how I will do fuselage.

 

[Bruce]

Update first and second coat of sealer now to re arrange and start the airframe, anybody cover one without removing motor and landing gear?

 

[Bob Turner]

I am positive it could be done. Lots easier to pull engine, gear, and empennage. Bolt 2x4s where the engine mount goes for ease of rotation.

 

[Sully]

I've done it. Not that difficult.

 

[Bruce]

Ready to get started on fuselage, this will be a slow process for me. Anybody have suggestions on the insulation that I need to replace I’m sure somebody has done this already. These are the before pictures.

 

[Bartman]

Whatever you do Bruce, don't brush on the diluted EkoBond unless you're ready to get right into putting the EkoFill over it. The diluted (3 to 1 I think) EkoBond stays tacky and will attract dust just sitting there.

Looks great though, wish I was closer, I'd come over and help!

 

[Bruce]

I’m just now getting to tear down, inspect order stuff then hope to cover. Plan on pulling motor and gear this weekend. Looking for ideas for which insulation as the original is coming apart. Hope to have fabric off next week. Then will really see what’s needed. Why did you dilute the eco bond? I’ve only used it straight but I did realize how sticky it is till the eco fill is applied.

 

[Bartman]

It used to be that the EkoFill was applied directly to the bare fabric but I guess there were some issues with adhesion so they now recommend using diluted EkoBond as a first coat on the bare fabric to better prepare it for the EkoFill and later coats. From section 10 of the master procedures manual:

Section 10 Sealing the Weave
Before EkoFill (E620) can be applied, the
weave of the fabric must be sealed with
EkoBond (E610G or E610L). (To simulate
the look of cotton fabric on the inside of
the aircraft use EkoBond Linen (E610L) to
seal the weave.) In the past EkoFill was
used to seal the weave of the fabric, but
we have found that using EkoBond is both
easier and provides better adhesion.
EkoBond must be used on all fabric to fill
the weave prior to application of EkoFill.
Prior to applying EkoBond to seal the
weave, the fabric should first be cleaned.
Dust should be removed with a vacuum or
compressed air. Next the fabric should be cleaned with EkoClean (E670) diluted at a
15:1 ratio applied with a spray bottle and a sponge. The fabric should then be rinsed
with clean water. Allow the fabric to dry completely. The fabric is now ready for
EkoBond application.
Dilute the EkoBond with distilled water at a ratio of exactly 3 parts EkoBond to 1 part
water by weight. Apply EkoBond to the fabric with a foam brush, being careful not to
miss any area. Only one coat is necessary but may be brushed in multiple directions to
ensure complete application. Do not wipe off excess but allow to dry. If the foam brush
begins to shed small pieces of foam, use a new one. It is not necessary to apply
EkoBond over areas that have been glued with EkoBond. Once EkoBond is applied,
allow it to completely dry for approximately 30 minutes to 1 hour. It will be susceptible
to dust and dirt because EkoBond will remain somewhat tacky even when dry. * Once
the fabric is sealed with EkoBond and dry, EkoFill should be applied as soon as
practical to prevent dirt and dust build up. It is acceptable to store parts for a long
period of time once EkoFill has been fully applied, but care should be taken to keep it
clean and dry. If the parts are to be stored it is advised to not sand the final coat of
EkoFill until ready for topcoat. When ready for topcoat, wipe with a rag lightly
dampened with Isopropyl alcohol prior to sanding. If the cleanliness of the surface is
still in doubt, you may add an additional coat of EkoFill (E620) or EkoPrime, (E75XX)
prior to top coating

 

[Bruce]

Well I missed that and used the old way of cleaning fabric and rising then 2 coats of fill I even allowed 4 hours cure between coats it appeared to have good penetration and fill. Sort of funny I referenced the videos on YouTube for each step and it still shows the old style, I even found in Manuel where I highlighted this section thanks for pointing this out. Guess this is what happens when you read instructions and 8 months later start project. I will call them Monday and ask what they think will stink if I end up redoing this. Thanks for pointing this out.